A Taste of History: NHA Revives the Fabled 'Dak Bungalow' Table

Novotel Hyderabad Airport is breathing new life into a forgotten chapter of colonial-era culinary heritage with a themed Sunday brunch series this July.

HYDERABAD — Long before the age of rapid transit, travel in India was an unhurried, storied affair punctuated by stops at government-run lodges known as dak bungalows. This month, Novotel Hyderabad Airport (NHA) is transporting diners back to that slower era, recreating the distinct, hybrid cuisine that once defined the kitchens of these colonial-era outposts.

Every Sunday in July, NHA’s executive chef, Amanna Raju, and his culinary team are hosting the "Monsoon Dak Bungalow" brunch. The menu serves as a bridge between the past and present, featuring comfort foods born from the necessity of colonial travel and the ingenuity of local Indian cooks.

Culinary Fusion Born of Necessity

The dak bungalow kitchens were historically managed by Indian cooks serving British officials. These spaces became accidental laboratories for culinary exchange, where local ingredients and spices were adapted to satisfy European palates. The resulting dishes—neither entirely Indian nor strictly Western—formed a unique genre of comfort food that eventually became a staple of Indian travel history.

"It started with the monsoon," Chef Amanna Raju explained. "We wanted to create a menu that captured what the rains meant during the British era. Long journeys were dangerous due to disease, so travelers stayed back in dak bungalows, and these kitchens developed their own distinct style of cooking."

Recreating a Faded Heritage

To ensure authenticity, Chef Raju and his executive sous chef conducted extensive research, cross-referencing historical records with the culinary traditions of Anglo-Indian communities, particularly in Chennai. The resulting menu features iconic dishes that offer a taste of this historical exchange:

• Classic Comforts: Mulligatawny Soup—a British adaptation of a Tamil pepper broth—sits alongside Railway Mutton Curry and Pepper Chicken.

• Colonial Classics: The spread includes Colonial Lamb Seekh Kebabs and cauliflower kebabs, highlighting the integration of European influence.

• Vegetarian Legacy: Chef Raju notes that the simple pairing of cauliflower and potatoes became immensely popular during the colonial period, and remains a featured staple on the NHA menu.

According to NHA officials, the experience is designed to encourage diners to slow down and "rediscover flavors that once defined the very idea of Indian travel." The brunch also incorporates global buffet elements, including a nod to World Chocolate Day, reflecting how the menu balances historical nostalgia with contemporary dining preferences.

Why It Matters

For food historians and local gourmands, this initiative serves as a preservation of a "fading" culinary chapter. By moving beyond routine buffet offerings, NHA provides a tangible connection to the past, reminding modern travelers that a meal can be more than mere sustenance; it can be a narrative of migration, trade, and cultural evolution.

Key Facts at a Glance

• The Concept: A themed Sunday brunch series recreating the hybrid cuisine of colonial dak bungalows.

• The Location: Novotel Hyderabad Airport (NHA), Hyderabad.

• Timing: Every Sunday throughout the month of July 2026.

• The Menu: Includes iconic dishes like Mulligatawny Soup, Railway Mutton Curry, and Dak Bungalow Chicken.

• Research Basis: Developed through historical reference and the study of Anglo-Indian community cooking traditions.

FAQ

What is a Dak Bungalow?

Dak bungalows were modest government-run lodges built along travel routes during the British colonial period in India, serving as resting places for weary travelers.

What makes this cuisine unique?

The food was a hybrid, blending local Indian ingredients and spices with British culinary preferences, created by local cooks for travelers during an era of slower, more arduous journeys.

Who is leading the initiative at NHA?

The project is led by Executive Chef Amanna Raju, who has curated the menu based on historical research and his own professional experience.

Source: Novotel Hyderabad Airport, Deccan Chronicle, ET Hospitality