Thread by Thread: India’s Costume Designers Weave History into Cinema

Updated: July 20, 2025 00:15

Image Source: Vogue India

India’s costume designers are stepping into the spotlight, transforming film sets into living museums of culture and history. From period dramas to biopics, their work is redefining authenticity and visual storytelling in Bollywood and beyond.

Crafting the Past:

•⁠ ⁠Rimple and Harpreet Narula spent two years designing over 300 costumes for Heeramandi, sourcing fabrics from Turkey and referencing museums like Calico and the V&A.

•⁠ ⁠Ratna Dhanda, designer for Ae Watan Mere Watan, relied on family archives and oral histories to recreate 1940s attire with precision.

•⁠ ⁠Niharika Bhasin’s work on Bombay Velvet and Rang Rasiya fused Art Deco with Ravi Varma-inspired aesthetics, showcasing her flair for blending eras.

Key Highlights:

•⁠ ⁠Designers often face budget constraints, pushing them to innovate with local markets, borrowed garments, and repurposed materials.

•⁠ ⁠Period costumes demand durability for retakes and choreography, requiring hidden reinforcements and sweat-resistant fabrics.

•⁠ ⁠Background characters are styled with equal care, ensuring the visual integrity of ensemble scenes.

Creative Challenges:

•⁠ ⁠Designers must balance historical accuracy with cinematic flair, resisting trends that could dilute the narrative.

•⁠ ⁠Bhanu Athaiya, India’s first Oscar-winning costume designer, tied 100 dhotis herself for Gandhi’s cremation scene, exemplifying dedication to detail.

•⁠ ⁠Fantastical fashion, as seen in Rangeela and Satyam Shivam Sundaram, continues to influence everyday style and inspire bold self-expression.

Looking Ahead:

•⁠ ⁠With streaming platforms investing in high-production period content, costume design is becoming central to storytelling.

•⁠ ⁠Exhibitions and retrospectives are finally honoring the legacy of pioneers like Athaiya, bringing their artistry to new generations.

Sources: Hindustan Times, Grazia India, Harper’s Bazaar India, Film Companion.

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